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It is always a struggle during the middle of a cold hard winter to beat back the climbing demons that tempt you into spending a wad of cash traveling to Utah, Las Vegas or even J-Tree to get your fix. When the snowy low pressure rises and the skies clear up, there are a surprising number of places in Western Colorado that offer protected southern exposures and balmy temperatures. No need to plan a big trip. You just need to find your rack, round up your climbing partner, load up the truck, grab the dog and go.
Before heading out, I recommend going to http://www.mountainproject.com/ for updates and additional info on these areas.
A few notable and less crowded winter crags:
Naturita – Lost World
Directions: Drive west from Naturita on CO141. At the abandoned site of Vancorum turn west on CO 90 and drive about 5.2 miles to EE22 Road.
Google Maps:
View Larger MapLost World Crag is a great place to climb in the winter. Take a right at about 1.8 miles on EE22. The crag is visible from the turnoff. Just to the right of the crag are plenty of primitive camping sites. Lost World rock is very abrasive conglomerate and the climbing is interesting and memorable on pebbles and cobbles. I have been there a number of times and enjoyed beautiful shirtless spring-like days in March.
Ouray- Pool Walls
Directions: The obvious cliff band across the road from the Hot Springs Pool, on the west side of Hwy550 (Main Street) in Ouray.Google Maps:
View Larger MapClimbing within a short distance to the Hot Springs Pool….. What’s not to love? Easier routes to the north, tougher routes to 5.13 on the south end. Mostly bolts with chains, though there are a couple trad routes.
Unaweep Canyon- Sunday Wall
Directions: 8 miles south of Grand Junction on HWY 50, turn on HWY 141 at Whitewater and head west for about 13.5 miles. At the intersection with Divide Road, continue on HWY141 for about 2 miles. The parking for Sunday Wall is on the right. The Access Fund has purchased the land and the location is signed.
Google Maps:
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I love climbing at Sunday Wall. On a sunny day, the rock seems to radiate heat and the smell of the pine infuses the air. Not many people climb there, you might have the place to yourself. Bear in mind, it is a canyon, so expect the sun to appear and disappear more quickly and plan your day accordingly. The rock is granite. Plenty of short trad and sport routes of all grades. On warmer days, above the Standard Route (5.7) there are a couple of fun routes that leave from Sundeck Ledge.
Aspen- Classy Cliff, Master Headwall and Dragon Rock
Directions: Head east out of Aspen on HWY 82. Just after the turn off to Difficult Campground on the right is a large pullout just before mile marker 46.
Google Maps:
View Larger MapWhen April arrives, this place can be quite the social scene as the local climbers trade their axes and boards for their climbing shoes and a rack. Find the rather sketchy trail going up. As it splits up, head left for Classy Cliff, up the center for Master Headwall and right for Dragon Rock. Classy offers some fun cracks and the classic 5.8 Edge of Time trad route. Master Headwall and Dragon rock have short, contrived sport routes and some excellent slabs. Certainly enough to keep you entertained!
